Riflessione sulla lavorazione artigianale a telaio

Reflection on loom craftsmanship

The interest in the loom processing of artisanal textiles has been growing in recent years. Each of us can create our own fabric with an artisanal loom. But after courses and private lessons, after hours spent trying and trying again, after so much effort to be able to detach the fabric from the loom we should ask ourselves a simple question: "Is my work totally artisanal?"

The creation of an artisanal fabric requires the help of man in every step: from the preparation of the warp on the loom to the finishing of the product.

But if we use a yarn created entirely by mechanical means, not knowing the composition of the fibre, perhaps the work created will not be totally artisanal because its structure (the heart of my work) will be compromised.

We do not necessarily have to choose yarns created entirely by hand, with natural dyes of vegetable or mineral origin. However, we can find the right compromise between innovation and tradition.
The use of yarns that derive from fibers used for millennia (forgotten for a long time), but created with innovative systems, can make the difference. In fact, we will use a product that respects centuries-old traditions and the environment (eco-sustainability) instead of a product with uncertain origins.

Eucalyptus yarn and bamboo yarn represent an excellent example in this case.
It is a material that is still little used in Italy, but which certainly needs to be discovered. It is obtained from the processing of the cellulose of the plant of the same name, a tree that does not require much water (rain water is sufficient) and does not require any type of treatment (pesticides or other). Its processing has a very low impact on the environment. Furthermore, it is a naturally antibacterial, breathable material that does not wrinkle easily, very bright and soft to the touch, biodegradable (being of plant origin).

I also find the use of other types of raw, non-chemically treated yarns interesting, such as nettle, or Ahimsa silk (vegan silk), but also raw, non-mercerized cotton.

It may be a difficult challenge to face, but it is achievable. We should become more aware of our actions even through small daily gestures. Starting from an idea which will then transform into an intention and ultimately become reality.

M. Rossi

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